My friend, Rake Morgan, has had many tragedies in his life: the death of an abusive father who succumbed at an early age to the ravages of alcohol and cigarettes, a mother people politely called “cold and aloof” who also died young, a brother who was shot dead at age 37 by police in a cocaine bust in Westport, Connecticut, his flirtation as a starry-eyed college student with a woman who might become president of the United States. (The so-called romance ended in a sad farewell on a bridge in Boston just before she left for Yale Law School.)
Then there is Rake himself: four weeks in a coma following a plane crash in Kiana, Alaska. According to Rake, he was on a professional P.I. gig, investigating the disappearance of a female tourist from the native Arctic village. The Super Cub lost power over the Kobuk River. Rather than risk freezing to death in the water, he elected a “controlled crash” into the brush. He awoke four months later in a hospital in Fairbanks.
Perhaps his greatest emotional peril came from chasing the Two Larrys — Larry Case and Larry Nichols, who tried to blackmail the former First Lady. The details are not important now. What adds to Rake’s list of personal tragedies is the outcome of his work on Hillary’s behalf: banishment to Concord, New Hampshire. The First Lady was not displeased; nor was the president. Sometimes, as Rake puts it, you can lose by virtue of winning. He saved the Clintons but in the end knew too much to be left “unattended” in the nation’s capital. And that’s how he became a neighbor of mine.
I wish that was all I had to say about Rake’s tragedies, but there’s one more. The worst, I think.
Rake has no taste.
I don’t mean stylistically, though that might also be true. I mean he does not know a good meal from a great one, a meal that merely fills the stomach from one that leads the soul to heaven. Perhaps it is his background. He grew up in one of those snooty Ivy League families where they pretended to be English and ate even worse. Me, I have been very fortunate. Food was the centerpiece of the Italian family I grew up in. It might be fair to say that my mother’s cooking is what really bound us together as a family.
When I finished college I made it my mission to get all my mother’s and grandmother’s recipes. They are among my most cherished possessions. Over the years, I’ve made a few minor changes and omissions, mostly due to a late-life conversion to vegetarianism (one of the few “isms” that Rake and I share!).
About five years ago, in an effort to come up with some new menu ideas, I started subscribing to a magazine called La Cucina Italiana. I could not rave enough about it. In addition to great, authentic Italian recipes, it actually showed readers how to prepare them. For me, the magazine was a cooking school, a connection to Italian culture, and the inspiration for some of the best food I have ever tasted.
Here’s where the story turns sour.
The publisher of the magazine was a fatherly — and plump! — chef and entrepreneur, Paolo Villoresi. His love of Italian food and Italy infused every page of the magazine. Getting my hands on the newest issue was as fulfilling as the best recipe within its covers! From a business standpoint, Paolo had been licensing the rights to the name, La Cucina Italiana, from the original publishers in Milan, Italy. Several months ago, the publishers took back the rights to the American version of the magazine.
Paolo is now gone.
A few days ago I received my new, “improved” version of the magazine. Instead of the fatherly, rotund Paolo, our new publisher is an emaciated young woman named Laura Lazzaroni. Italian recipes are hard to find in the pages of the new version. Instead, the magazine has become a promotional brochure for the city of Milan. (I am thinking they should rename the magazine, La Cucina Milano, but the kitchen is missing, too!).
Then there are the tedious articles about Italian design. If you want an idea of what they are serving up in that area, think “Bond, James Bond.” It’s all old stuff being delivered to readers as something new, and it is hideous. I don’t know anyone besides James Bond who might appreciate such stereotypical, “modern” Italian design. Five years ago I subscribed to a magazine about Italian food. Thanks to the new publishers, I can now read about ugly foil lamps and crowded, Milanese department stores.
Actually, it is “no, thank you!” to the new publishers. My renewal is due but they will not be getting one from me. A great magazine has been ruined by its own pretentiousness. I thought of writing to Ms. Lazzaroni, but nowhere in her welcoming message did she even ask her readers for feedback. In fact, the entire magazine seems to exist solely for the pleasure of its editors and publishers, and we American readers and subscribers are just an afterthought.
I am hoping that Mr. Paolo Villoresi continues writing and publishing; he will always find an appreciative audience. I enjoyed reading about his love affair with Italy and Italian food. I only wish the story can continue.
— Frank
kaylee2 said:
OH GOD READ THAT!
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M. Galastro said:
We just received the latest issue of La Cucina Italiana as well and were sorely disappointed. We have been long-time subscribers to this wonderful magazine for many years and anxiously awaited the arrival of each new issue.
Having worked in the magazine publishing industry for many years I was aware of the changes in ownership that took place recently, but never expected the marked change that transformed a passionate, informative Italian cooking magazine into a colorless glossy publication devoid of substance. This is another example of a publisher who is not sensitive to the needs of its readership, and who will ultimately lose the loyalty of its long-term supporters by changing a tried and true recipe without sampling the dish first.
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sognatrice said:
This is tragic. I’m not a subscriber, but I’ve received countless issues of “La Cucina Italiana” from visitors answering my plea for English reading material (not easy to come by in Calabria).
Guess I’ll just have to appreciate my back issues and continue cooking my Calabrian-American grandmother’s and my Calabrian OH’s mother’s specialties….
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salobrena said:
One of the few things that I saved and took with me to Spain when I moved here, were several copies of La Cucina Italiano. I feel after reading this article the same as I did when I heard that Luciano Pavarotti had died. Sigh, what a disappointment, for I loved them both.
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radha said:
its just because of a problem of ego in the publishing side that the readers cannot enjoy a product which is meant to satisfy everybody and trasmit the love and care of a well done work. Too bad for L a Cucina Italiana which is risking to become La Cucina Egoista. with love:)
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Luigi said:
They ruined a great magazine! One would look forward to every new edition and now…..horrible. Take a look at
Italian Cooking and Living.com it offers much of what La Cucina used to offer and I think Paolo is there!
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Ivan said:
I have been a reader for many years and am also very disappointed in the change. I have many past issues that are well worn and stained from use. La Cucina Italiana was informative and entertaining and its arrival was always anticipated. But, things have changed and the new format just doesn’t have the same feel. It’s good to know that others feel the same way. The way it is now, the new publishers won’t be getting any more of my money
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Jacopo Barioli said:
Dear All,
I would like to assure you that the publisher of La Cucina Italiana is very open to suggestions from readers, and has already made some changes to the magazine. Readers have said that the font size on the recipes was too small, and it will in future be bigger; readers have complained that there was no recipe index, and it will be re-introduced.
Reading your feedback, I understand that the magazine should be about food, and not “James Bond design”. Guess what? Yes, the design story is gone as well! The January/February issue of the magazine will be about Italian, traditional food and how to make it. Just like you want it to be. I ask you to give us one more chance to prove to you that we are listening, and trying to give you the magazine you want and love.
Yours sincerely,
Jacopo Barioli
General Manager
La Cucina Italiana
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Pingback: La Cucina Italiana says to readers: “Give us one more chance!” « A Rake’s Progress
Tony said:
I saw a copy of La Cucina and liked it so much this past summer I ordered it. In October I paid for a subscription. The company has cashed the check and I have yet to receive a copy of the magazine, new or old. Today I received mail from the magazine to renew my subscription. I have tried to find a web site so I could write to someone, it is not the easiest thing in the world. If Mr. Barioli or someone on his staff reads this I wished they would contact me, if not I guess I will wait and then take other actions to recoup my money for what I thought was going to be a fine magazine.
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Paolo Villoresi said:
To my devoted readers:
In the world, nothing stays for ever.
La Cucina Italiana has taken back its magazine that I have launched and developed for 12 years. I continue with the Italian Culinary Institute, its printed magazine, Italian Cooking and Living, and its e-magazine, cibo, faithful to my mission of promoting the Italian culture of food and wine.
I am not gone, the story continues: come and see for yourself.
Sincerely,
Paolo Villoresi
Publisher and Editor-in-Chief
Italian Cooking and Living
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Donato C. said:
Beautifulst publication!!!!
I pick the occasion for greeting Mr.Jacopo Barioli
Bellissima pubblicazione!!!!
Colgo l’occasione per salutare Mr. Jacopo Barioli
Do you remember Corbetta Mr. Jacopo
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LAURA LEON said:
La Cucina was my favorite magazine for italian cooking. After surviving 9\11 at the World Trade Center one of the first things I did was search for the Sept01 issue. I have been going crazy this month to find this magazine to no avail. That is how I decided to google about the magazine. Damn, it just makes me so sad that I will never see this fantastic magazine again. It will truly be missed.
Ciao,
Laura Leon
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S. N. PURCELL said:
I ordered two gift subscriptions forChristmas gifts. The company sent acknowledgements. I have never received a bill nor have the giftees received the magazines. I can’t seem to find a phone number for them (nor a webpage with a “contact”).
Can you help?
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M Burke said:
I stumbled upon this page amongst an hour-long search for an actual website (besides one that justs solicits more subscriptions) or some other means to contact this company. I subscribed quite some time ago, but have yet to receive the free apron promised as a free gift for subscribing.. It’s a shame to post here, but you leave me no other choice. Jacopo Barioli, or another qualified representative of La Cucina Italiana.. please contact me? Thanks
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Paula said:
I received an offer for this magazine through Cook’s Illustrated, which I love. I have received bills, including ones that tell me my paypment is late and they’ll suspend my subscription. However, I have yet to see a single issue, much less evaluate whether I want to subscribe. This sort of thing makes me less inclined to subscribe even if the magazine is a good one.
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Paula said:
update to my comments above: I finally reached someone. The phone number on my invoices is incorrect and the company kindly gave me the correct number. I called someone who was very abrupt and told me to just wait until the May/June issue arrives and then pay the invoice, if I choose. No apologies for the very irritating past due “we’ll have to submit for collection” notices I keep receiving. When I tried to ask some questions about it or offer my concerns as a customer, he cut me off and asked if he could help me with anything else. At this time, I will not even consider doing business with a company so unconcerned with their customers. If this is how they treat people, they deserve to have the magazine fail.
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not a fan said:
la cucina is a poorly run, missmanaged sinking ship. Jacopo Barioli is a man with no scruples. they just through good employees out on the street
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Rake Morgan said:
Although I appreciate everyone taking the time to write, please be aware that I am not an employee of La Cucina Italiana. I cannot resolve your subscription issues.
Earlier today we spoke to Mr. Baroli and evidently some confusion has arisen because they have changed their web site location. If you wish to visit the site go to http://www.lacucinaitalianamagazine.com
They also have a customer service number:
1-877-282-4825.
Thank you!
— Rake
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Jacopo Barioli said:
Dear Readers,
I sincerely apologize for all the problems many of you have had with our subscription services. We have recently changed fulfilment house due to their poor service, and I’m pleased to let you know that all problems related to billing and renewals have been resolved.
Should you need any assistance you can call our customer services number on 1-877-282-4825, or e-mail us at info@quadratumusa.com. I will be reading e-mails myself and will be happy to help you with any problems you may have.
Thank you,
Jacopo Barioli
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Joe Orso said:
I’ve been a subscriber to La Cucina Italiana for about 10 years. I was surprised when my first ‘new look’ issue arrived and at the time I didn’t realize the ‘new’ magazine wasn’t just a change in format, typestyle, management, etc–that it was a completely different magazine. Initially I didn’t care for the changes but hoped that eventually my old friend would return to it’s comfortable and traditional form.
But today, after a few disappointing issues, I looked at the new June book and realized that there was nothing in it that I’d look forward to cooking or reading about and there probably never would be again, so for the first time ever I’m tossing this once old reliable friend into the recycle bin and those remaining on my subscription may well end up there, too.
Fortunately I’ve saved every single issue of LCI I’ve ever received so I’ll still have plenty of new recipes to try and articles to read & re-read. But whenever my subscription renewal offer comes in the mail I won’t renew and that’ll be rather sad.
The new Cucina has a different approach and probably a different target audience in mind. Maybe that’ll be good for the magazine and I wish them well. But the original Cucina holds many wonderful memories and was so much fun while it lasted.
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pawsinsd said:
Thanks to Google (all hail Google) I was able to find out about La Cucina Italiana before mentioning it in my new blog. The old Cucina was fun and I’d pick it up from time to time on a whim because I tend to collect paper.
Loved your blog and hope you’ll visit mine at http://cookingwithdee.net
Cheers, Dee
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las said:
Do Not Subscribe to La Cucina Italiana! I wish I had read this post before resubscribing to La Cucina. It has been a nightmare. We used to subscribe for years and decided to try them again. They cashed our check on May 8th and never sent a single issue despite repeated emails to them. They finally came up with the excuse that they entered the address incorrectly and would fix it and extend our subscription. Guess what? We never received an issue. Finally tiring of this, we demanded a refund. They claim to be sending a partial refund for the unused portion of our subscription! We did not use any portion of our subsciption. Not a good way to do business. There are too many worthy magazine companies to waste money on a company like this.
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J. Pellegrino said:
I thought the magazine had dramatically changed. I was so disappointed. I’m glad the original editor is still writing and I will be looking for his own magazine. I’m glad I saved the old ones.
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R. Zischkau said:
At last I have found out what happened to Paolo. It is my opinion that he made the magazine and like so many other comments, it is not the same. I truly enjoy his television programs and dream of visiting sites in Italy he is priviledged to visit. If, as I understand, there is another magazine that Paolo is involved with, I will also be leaving the fold. I don’t believe that rewarding loyalty and success should be dismissal. Since you apparently have dismissed Paolo, I intend to dismniss you.
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s.eliza said:
I am in the food industry and have heard from so many different sources that Villaresi cheated many people and companies out of money and products. He apparently treated his employees just as badly if not worse. I don’t believe he deserves much loyalty. I love the new magazine and think it’s finally in the right hands. It’s gorgeous, interesting, great recipes and a HUGE step up from the Villaresi era.
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foodie said:
I happened on this blog post by chance (like most things online). Like s.eliza, I have worked on and off for both the food as well as the publishing industry for years.
I had to deal with Mr. Villoresi as well as his magazine. What appears as his love for Italian cooking and culture is masking a deep presumptuousness and disdain for his readers. He treated his employees (and his collaborators) with the same disdain. He often insulted his clients and had some shady dealings to try and retain certain “prized” readers.
He referred to his readers as a bunch of ignorant, fat un-cultured Americans. It is somewhat of a miracle that he was able to carry on as he did, without any legal recourse.
The “new” Cucina Italiana, closely resembles its original Italian version. It’s a beautiful magazine, deserving of its name.
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Frank Marafiote said:
It’s a shame that you had to use a discussion of La Cucina Italiana as an opportunity to vilify Paolo Villoresi. You sound like you have a personal axe to grind — your comments are obviously biased. Those of us who read his magazine knew him as down-to-earth, passionate about Italy and Italian food, good-humored, and helpful to his readers. The new magazine — actually, the second iteration of the “new” magazine — is cold, passionless, pretentious, and ugly. Most of the recipes are incomprehensible and useless. No matter your personal experience, Paolo understood that an American audience is not the same as an Italian audience. His magazine reflected that understanding; the new one does not.
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Smurfe said:
I received my first issue of this magazine today and have to say it is absolutely fantastic in my opinion. If every issue is like the Sept/Oct. issue I will be a happy subscriber.
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Frank Marafiote said:
Agreed! The Sep/Oct issue is excellent — the best one to come out since Villoresi left some time ago. I hope this is a sign of progress, not a one time fluke.
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Smurfe said:
I have as well tried to find a link to get the Italian Cooking and Living magazine. I can not find a valid subscription link and their website allows no access. Did this publication not make it?
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Terry said:
I agree totally with Franks comments! I called the magazine after receiving one that only had a total of 12 receipts in it I didn’t to read about Italy. My subscription ran out and I will not order again.
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Laura said:
What a pretentious magazine. it looks ugly and wonder how any1 cares about traveling when what you want to read is good recipes.
Use Google to find what you need. This glossy piece of * is truly not worth it.
I called them to cancel my subscription but was given the run around even though this guy jacopo wrote good things about the fulfillment.
I wished that this blog didn’t have many of the company’s employees writing on behalf of their employer.
If great magazines like Gourmet go out of business how come this thing is still around?
I searched more about the company and now see that it is associated with the editor of runner magazine…
I am so disappointed.
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Pomodoro Verde said:
I just picked up this La Cucina Italiana after Gourmet closed (so sad to see you go old friend). The magazine has a great look and as an avid traveler and lover of Italy I find that this is magazine is really talking to me. I’ve never seen any of the former publication so I have no comparison, but judging from these posts there is a big difference. I like the this new incarnation though and look forward to the recipes and articles on that beloved land that I miss so much.
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Pomodoro Verde said:
Also, how strange that this thread is on this blog. the post has so little to do with cooking and publishing. Very strange, but that’s the beauty of the internet.
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Andre Arrisa said:
Rejoice! Paolo Villoresi is still writing, but this time in an online magazine. This is everything La Cucina Italiana should be, but isn’t. Here’s the address: http://www.italiancookingforum.net/
Enjoy!
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deliathecrone said:
I’m a second generation Italian American, and I don’t care what S. Vilaresi calls me, as long as he continues to put out the best Italian cooking magazine in the world! He can call me anything he wants. He doesn’t have to like me to publish the best magazine!
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Frank Marafiote said:
I’m not aware of a cookbook that compiled the recipes. One of the former editors, Mr. Villoresi, has a website called italiancookingforum.net. Not sure that it is up to date, but you might find some of the old recipes there.
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Lana Turner said:
La Cucina Italiana is/was my favorite magazine and I was able to prepare many of the recipes, even though I was cooking in the galley of a 48 foot sailing vessel, (not underway, of course). Is there a compilation of recipes in a cookbook? I tore out my favorite recipes and put them in my “cookbook.”
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Lynda Pontecorvo said:
I have been sending your magazine to my relatives for years and am finding out that even though I have paid they have not been receiving them in the past couple of years
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Frank Marafiote said:
The American edition went out of business a few years ago. Contact the publisher in Italy. (PS I am not the publisher — just a reader!)
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Misty said:
Thank you Frank and Rake for writing this article. I always wondered what had happened to the magazine. (I stopped subscribing upon receiving the ‘new’ magazine – it was just too radical of a change in style and content for me). While I am saddened to see the demise of what was a great magazine, it just reinforces the fact that Mr. Villoresi was the heart and soul of La Cucina Italiana magazine.
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William Rosselli Del Turco said:
Sadly Paolo passed away last year. All I can say about the two negative posts is that it is weird how the posts vilified him while, at the same time, overly praising the new version of the magazine; it appears to be a transparent and tasteless effort by the new management. Which, seemingly, are out of business? If so, it truly is a sad demise to what was once a staple in the international community, bonding Italian cuisine lovers to one another and delighting ex-pats, as well. There is so little “real Italian” out there, in terms of recipes, ect, that the old Cucina Italiana was a refreshingly unique and genuine product.
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Dan Ginsberg said:
As I reread an old issue this afternoon, I went on line to reorder my subscription and learned of the magazine’s demise. Absolutely, totally sad that this incredible magazine has gone so far down hill in so short a time.
As an artist, I loved the visuals as much as the recipes… almost.
I guess my old issues will just have to do for now.
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Frank Marafiote said:
Never found a good print replacement.
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Linda Zito said:
wow I got a fancy card t renew as a former sub. last 11/9/2016. I t was for a free issue that they were back. I sent it in and kept my part in a folder where I keep things I sent for. I clean out the folder once a year or so. So I looked I up and this is what I found. Almost reminds me of Gourmet and what ever happened to that wonderful mag.
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